This was my third day tour of Delhi on my own. This time I visited Purani Dilli –Chandni Chowk, which as they call the asli Delhi.
The first impression of mine, at a glance, upon arriving at Chandni Chowk is that I have gone back to the by-gone days of Mughal Empire. Chandni Chowk is since the time of birth of ‘Dilli’ and remains today bearing its history. In fact, Chandni Chowk, a part of the ‘Walled City’, is the original ‘shahar’ of that period. Even the sweltering heat and the soaring mercury at 41 degree celsius couldn’t boil my spirits and I greeted myself: "Welcome to the Walled City; Welcome to Dilli 6".
Yeah, Dilli- 6!!! This is the place centering which and concerning which the recent Bollywood movie, ‘Delhi-6’ was screened. The narrow roads, the cob-webbed lanes and the hospitality of the people with a warm smile are going to win the heart of anyone.
‘Chandni Chowk’, originally meaning moonlit square or market, is one of the oldest and busiest markets in central north of Delhi.Chandni Chowk is the major street in the ‘walled city’ of which was originally called "Shah Jahanabad". The walled city which includes the Lal Qilla (Red Fort) of Delhi was established in 1650 AD, by the Shah Jahan and designed by his daughter, who also made significant contributions in the landscaping of her father's new capital of Shahjahanabad.
With the most famous mosque of Delhi Jama Masjid (Delhi) built in 1644 in the vicinity, it is an unusual street that has several famous religious shrines, belonging to different religions, that co-exist lending the street a genuine cultural harmony.
Chandni Chowk runs through the middle of the walled city, from the Lahori Darwaza (Lahore Gate) of the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid. Originally a canal ran through the middle of the street as a part of the water supply scheme.
The area lies in the historically important Shahjahanabad, between the Lal Qila (The Red Fort) and Fatehpuri Masjid. On both sides of the wide Chandni Chowk streets are historical residential areas served by narrow lanes (galis).
Chandni Chowk's speciality is the variety of its markets and their Indian-ness. From authentic Indian food, delicacies and sweets of more than 1,000 kinds, to sarees with Chikan and Zari work. There are lots of narrow lanes with many shops selling books, clothing, shoes and leather goods, electronic and consumer goods and what not. The area, even more so than the rest of the city, is very congested. This is also a good area for window shopping. It is the location of the original Haldiram's. A particular local delicacy are the Jalebis, which are fried in pure ghee.
My first destination upon arriving at Chandni Chowk was the world famous ‘Paranthewalei Gali’.
PARANTHEWALI GALI
Gali Paranthe Wali or Paranthewali Gali, is the name of a narrow street in Chandni Chowk area of Delhi, noted for its series of shops selling paratha, a fried Indian bread, and now a popular culinary destination.
Earlier this lane was known only for its silverware shops, before the Parantha shops moved in, first in the 1870s, though many sari and jewelery shops are still in this lane.
‘Paranthewali Gali’ ("lane of parantha-makers") in Old Delhi is a famous gourmet localities of the world..From the 20 parantha shops in the late 1960s (all belonging to branches of the same family, three remain. Pt Kanhaiyalal Durgaprasad (estd 1875), Pt Dayanand Shivcharan (estd 1882). Pt Baburam Devidayal Paranthewale (estd 1886). By 1911 this area, known as ‘Chota Dariba’ or ‘Dariba Kalan’, got the name as ‘Paranthewali Gali’.
In the years just after independence, Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, and Vijaya Lakshmi Pandit came to take their parantha meals in this gali. The "Pandit Dayanand Shivcharan" shop proudly displays the photograph of the Nehru family eating in their shop. Late Jayaprakash Narayan and Atal Behari Vajpayee were regular visitors.
In late 1980s many of them closed shop and moved out, though today this place is experiencing a revival; and some shops are being run by the sixth generation of the same family.
‘Paranthewali Gali’ is a narrow alley barely enough for three men to walk side-by-side, famous in every corner of the world for its lip-smacking ‘paranthas’. Along the both side of the narrow alley are outlets, selling hot and freshly made paranthas made with pure desi ghee. What is unique about this ‘Gali’ or alley is the aroma of the freshly fried paranthas and the essence it creates around and in one’s mind. Besides, paranthas of peculiar taste and variety is found here.
The food is old fashioned, strictly vegetarian, and cooked dishes do not include onion or garlic.
Though the lane is extremely narrow, the paranthas are particularly wide in variety and uniqueness. Thirty five varieties of Paranthas are served in the four shops that are now left in this lane. The fillings range from the Gajar, Paneer, Pudina, Nimbu, Kaju, Kismis, Mirchi, Matar and even Rabri, Khhurchan, Tamatar and Kela. Conventional paranthas like Aloo Parantha, Daal Parantha and paranthas made of Maithi, Gobi, Muli and Mixed Paranthas are also on the list. Another specialty is that the paranthas are fried with pure desi ghee and not oil and there is no hint of onion or garlic making it a 100% pure vegetarian affair since the owners are brahmins, and traditionally their clientale has included Jains in the neighborhood.
The usual fillings are rolled into a ball of dough and flattened with a rolling pin on a wooden or marble base. In the exotic parathas, the filling is spread on a flattened layer of dough and covered with another layer. The layers are then neatly tied and are ready to fry.Unlike the usual way of frying the parathas on a 'tawa' (flat griddle), the parathas in the Parathe Wali Gali are fried in a 'kadahi' (iron wok).
The parathas, fried in the 'desi ghee' (clarified butter) are then served in a 'thali' accompanied by 'kaddu (pumpkin) ki sabzi', 'aaloo mattar' (potatoes and green peas), 'aaloo mattar paneer' (potatoes, green peas and cottage cheese in gravy) 'kele ki saunth' (slices of bananas in thick jaggery and dried ginger chutney) and pudina (mint) chutney.
The parathas, fried in the 'desi ghee' (clarified butter) are then served in a 'thali' accompanied by 'kaddu (pumpkin) ki sabzi', 'aaloo mattar' (potatoes and green peas), 'aaloo mattar paneer' (potatoes, green peas and cottage cheese in gravy) 'kele ki saunth' (slices of bananas in thick jaggery and dried ginger chutney) and pudina (mint) chutney.
The choice of vegetables and chutneys, served as accompaniments, have remained unchanged all these years.Paranthe Wali Gali has seen more than a century and a quarter go by. And all through, it has been a major destination for the locals as well as the tourists who throng the place to satiate their gastronomical pleasures. All but four shops are now left in the lane. Many, from the original count of nearly a score, have diversified into other business.
The entire ‘Paranthewali Gali’ is a living heritage, since, all the shops dates back to the early 1860-1880’s period and are serving the demands of thousands everyday for last 6—7 generations without stop.
One such ‘paranthewale’ is ‘Pandit Babu Ram Dev Dayal ParanthewalI’ which started its journey in 1889, serving for last six generation. What struck me the most is that generations after generations, down the family line, are in the same family business bearing the name of their ancestors and spontaneously carrying on the tradition which is a heritage today.
I ordered two paranthas, one ‘gobi parantha’ and the other, ‘muli parantha’. And, Trust me… I have never tasted such lip-smacking and exotic paranthas anywhere else in my life before. ‘Paranthewale Gali’ has itself become a brand today in its own style and is regarded as a true landmark of Delhi.
KINARI BAZAAR
Adjacent to ‘Paranthewale Gali’ is ‘Kinari Bazaar’. ‘Kinari Bazaar’ is famous for its gold and silver dress trimmings, its traditional perfumes, ‘attar’ and all embellishment required for bridal wear.
A wonderful and colorful market, Kinari Bazaar is located on the street just behind the Gurdwara Sisganj and Sunehri Masjid on Chandni Chowk. The bazaar can be reached either by taking the Dariba Kalan Road and turning right in the fourth alley or taking the Paranthewali Gali just after the Ghantewala Sweet Shop.
Shops are scattered on both side of the by-lane and items sold here include zari embroideries, glass beads, ‘kalabattu’, ‘goti’, ‘neem zari’ ribbons and many other known and unknown pieces of colourful work, which hails from different corner of the country like Surat, Kolkata, Bombay, Kashmir and so on.
Kinari Bazaar has the wholesale and retail shops that mainly deals in the wedding ceremony business. They have large stocks of sehra (groom's turban), garlands made beautifully from gold and silver tinsel and crisp currency notes, bridal jewellery and other accessories required during a wedding ceremony. The shops cater to the needs of people belonging to mostly all religions. Whether it is a Hindu wedding or a Christian wedding, the necessary items are all available here. Even wedding clothes can also be hired from these shops like bridal veil, attractively designed lehenga, gold brocade Sherwanis and anything or everything that one requires in a marriage ceremony.
During festivals and especially during Dussehra, the whole bazaar takes a different look and character. The shops sell all kinds of items needed to perform Ram Lila. The bazaar also becomes the center of attraction during the festival of Holi and Rakshabandhan.
This is Asia’s largest retail market for wedding accessories. The bazaar is packed with wonderful, glittering shops and is a popular designation for shoppers during the wedding seasons. Each shop is a curiosity shop. ‘Kinari’ Bazaar is a one-stop halt for all embellishments required for a perfect Indian wedding. From invitation cards and scrolls to ornate gold and silver braids, money garlands, ready-to-wear turbans and any imaginable wedding essential – it’s all here and happening!
The shop carrying large number of stocks as they also sells to whole sellers. The traditional item required for festivals and rituals, which are now difficult to find are most likely to be available at Kinari Bazaar. Kinari Bazaar is very famous for zari and zardozi work. It can offer any kind to every kind that one may need for an Indian bridal trousseau.
Zardosi items and laces can be found at reasonable prices. Hand-made items like fancy rakhis, makhmal (velvet) pouches and embroidered patches are also available here. Kinari bazaar is a dignified and eminent manufacturer, exporter and trader of traditional and religious products including Rakhi, Poshak, Shringaar Samagri, vandan varr, Sehra, kaleerain Mukut (Crown), Home Decor Items etc.
As one goes deeper into Kinari Bazaar the lanes grow even narrower. And it’s not just wedding shoppers that throng this Bazaar. It’s also a destination to buy festival accessories, especially for Dusshera. The whole street is then has an array of Ramleela bows and arrows. This is a place where you shop for effigies of Ravana and where you can assemble the whole cast of Ram Leela.
The collection of the things are so colorful that they could not be possibly found anywhere in the world. Traditional accessories beckon to those who are enamored by the traditional celebration of the rituals, festivals and wedding. So if you have a chance to go through the Chandni Chowk do not miss to go through this bazaar. You will cherish its memories for long after the experience!
One such shop at the entrance to ‘kinari bazaar’ is ‘Messer’s. Chawthwal Deepchand Gote-wale’. Nirmal kumar Jain, the present owner of the family business, which is 6- generation old, said that ‘kinari bazaar’ is as old as the Red Fort. Interestingly, most of their stuff is exported. "Indians settled abroad are deeply rooted into their culture and buy stuff from local markets at the time of a wedding in the family," he revealed.
Actually, ‘kinari bazaar’ and the adjacent lanes, bazaars and settlements here were plotted simultaneously at the time of the birth of Red Fort. These ‘bazaars’ used to cater to the needs of the Nawabs and his family, men and soldiers living then at the Red Fort.
So, it can be assumed how old these settlements are! Mr. Jain said these ‘bazaars’ are a part of the planned settlement. He later said there is not a single ‘Mohalla’ or ‘bazaar’ hare which is not a heritage. The lanes and the buildings, though crumbling, date back to the Mughal era as is evident from the architectures and structures. The lanes of ‘Paranthewale Gali’, ‘Kinari Bazaar’ and the adjacent lanes are all inter-connected.
DARIBA KALAN
Adjacent to ‘kinari bazaar’ is ‘Dariba Kalan’, as old as ‘Kinari Bazaar’, is famous for gold and silver jewellery of fine designs.
DHOBIWADA
There is a small by-lane emerging from ‘Kinari Bazaar’, is ‘Dhobiwada’, which once used to be the laundry-service for the royal family living then at the Red Fort. Today at ‘Dhobiwada’ you can find beads shop. Beads of all kinds, colour and design are found here. Beads’ chains are hanging in bundles from every shop.
MALIWADI
‘Maliwadi’ is the vegetable market of the area, and also as old as the other bazaars.
The lanes and the by-lanes of ‘Kinari Bazaar’, ‘Dhobiwada’ and ‘Gariba Kalam’ forms a brilliant kaleidoscope throughout with its splash of rich and vibrant colours and is the masterpiece of art and superb craftsmanship.
The real India— the Indian art, culture and aroma lies here in the narrow by-lanes of Chandni Chowk. Each and every brick of the walls of these buildings, the bazaars bears the history of Dilli right from its birth till date.
In these lanes, you can still find tongas plying and thhela-wallas rushing from one corner to the another with their hand-carts, carrying goods and merchandise, vegetables and dry-fruits and so on.
ANNAPURNA BHANDER
Coming out of the lanes into the main road leading towards the Red Fort, I reached ‘Annapurna Bhander’—the oldest Bengali sweet shop in the city of Delhi.
Way back in 1920, Mohinimohan Mukherjee, a Railway employee based in Lahore, opened this Shop as he long wanted to open a shop selling traditional Bengali sweets in the heart of old Delhi, then called the ‘shahar’.
The shop is today run by Sisir Mukherjee, who is in his 60’s, along with his elder brother, Mihir, and younger brother, Tushar.
Sisir Mukherjee in his conversation with me, goes back to the down-memory-lane and said that there was a small Bengali community staying around Kashmeri Gate and Chandni Chowk areas since 1880’s and the shop was meant to cater to the demand of the community.
By 1922, the first version of the shop was ready and in 1929, it shifted to Chandni Chowk. The shop was in the shape of the first-class railway compartment, complete with a marble basin and plush wooden floor. The shop was renovated in 1981 as the wooden structure was falling apart.
The shop, opposite ‘Srishganj Gurudwara’ and the fountain and right beside the entrance to the Chandni Chowk Metro, is a landmark in Chandni Chowk and patrons have included Pandit J. L. Nehru and Indira Gandhi.
All the traditional Bengali sweets like ‘Raj Bhog’, ‘Anando Bhog’, ‘Golab Khus’, ‘Labanga Latika’, ‘Kanchagolla’, ‘Raso Madhuri’ ‘Cham Cham’, ‘Dilbahar’, ‘Sarbhaja’ and ‘Khir Kodombo’ and ‘Mishti Doi’ are found here along with the sweets of Delhi like ‘Kesar Malai’, ‘Gulab Jamun’, ‘Jalebis’, ‘Samoshas’ and ‘Kachauris’.
The sweets are made from pure cow milk which comes everyday all the way from Bikaner. Sisirbabu boasts that they do not compromise with the quality parameter of the food items here. The shop has also been rated as ‘Top 20 Must Visit Eateries in Delhi’ by HT.
I was moved by the warm reception from Sisirbabu and his men when I stepped into his shop. He welcomed me like family friend and offered me a cup of chilled Mishti Doi. Not only that, he also did not accept the price for the sweets I ordered for home and invited me drop in at his shop next time I visit Chandni Chowk. And he had a genuine tone of affection in him.
GHANTEWALA HALWAI
Another famous landmark of Chandni Chowk is ‘Ghantewala Halwai’. The Ghantewala Halwai in Chandni Chowk in Delhi,was established in 1790 is one of the oldest traditional sweet shop in India.
It has catered to Mughal Emperors, Presidents and Prime Ministers of India.It was founded by by Lala Sukh Lal Jain who had arrived in the walled city of Delhi from Amber, a few years after Sindhia restored Mughal Emperor Shah Alam II. The shop is now run by his descendants.
The Lala began by selling ‘Mishri Mawa’, a Rajasthani speciality. They now have around 40 to 50 different varieties of sweets that they keep changing according to the season or festivals, according to Sushant Jain, who is a seventh generation descendant. The family split a few decades ago and another branch has a shop nearby near the fountain. One shop is closed while another shop has changed its name as Ghantewala Confectioners. There are a couple of theories about how it got its name "Ghantewala". According to one, it was so named by Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar himself who asked his servants to get sweets from the 'Ghante ke neeche' (Below the bell) shop. In those days the area was sparsely populated and the Emperor who used to live in the Red Fort could hear the toll of the bell for the school which was located in front of the shop.
According to the owner Jain, the 'Sohan Halwa' is a favourite of patrons from as far away as the Gulf. ‘Pista Burfi’ and perennial favourite like 'motichoor ki ladoo' and snacks like ‘Makkan choora’ are also popular among the patrons.
Close to the chowk, at ‘Katranil’, the shooting of the movie ‘Delhi-6’ was done.
At Chandni Chowk, other than the historical Srisganj Gurudwara and the Fatehpuri Mosque, there is also a Digambar Jain Temple, a Shiv Mandir and a Baptist Church.
Chandni Chowk is the ultimate destination for food lovers. Other than the exotic ‘Paranthewali Gali’, there are many shops in the arcade which sell hot jalebis, and variety of spicy kachauris. One can also drop in to enjoy ‘kulfi’ and ‘faluda’ to beat this sweltering heat. Strolling through the busy streets of Chandni Chowk in the evenings, try out the ‘Chhole kulches’, in the road-side thelas, which is both spicy and good for health and highly economical as well. Sisirbabu of ‘Annapurna Bhandar’ had rightly said, "Old Delhi has always been a cauldron of culinary adventures."
Some of the famous landmark of Chandni Chowk for food buffs are Natraj’s Dahi Bhalle, established in 1940, Kanwarji Bhagirathmal Dalbijiwallah established in mid-19th century, Chaatwallah established in 1923, famous for fruit chaat, Bikaner Sweet Shop famous for rasmalai, Gianiji ka Falooda famous for Rabri Falooda, established around 1947, Meghraj and Sons, since 1950s and Chainaram established in 1948.
Along both side of the main road, shops of every knick-knack can found from garment stores to bookstores and even there is one shop which deals in arms & ammunitions.
Chandni Chowk is truly the landmark of the old Delhi as far as history, shopping and most importantly eating is concerned. Chandni Chowk and its by-lanes stay awake all night and if one has a stomach to wander from nine in the night till nine in the morning, feasting, it will remain one of the memorial experience.
Chandni chowk isn't just a trading hub but has been a timeless witness to events both major and small in India. Right from ancient princesses skirting around the narrow lanes, royal processions of the great Mughal Emperors to the wedding festivities. Not much has changed ever since history because the narrow lanes continue to buzz with life, gleaming lights, ethnic jewelry, antique goods, etc. Most importantly,some events are celebrated with great fervor around the Chandni Chowk like – the Republic Day Parade and festivals like Diwali, Dussehra, id-u-fitr which relive the pride of the ancient past.
Chandni Chowk represents the multi-diversity culture of India. It is truly the epitome of the ‘Unity in Diversity’ for the country. A visit to Delhi without Chandni Chowk in schedule will go in vain, if exploring Delhi and above all exploring the culture of India, in true sense, is the motive.
JAMA MASJID
From Chandni Chowk I walked down to Jama Masjid. It was just before the dusk. After a day of heat, it was the time when a cool breeze was blowing and bringing respite in the atmosphere. The sky was a brilliant canvas with streaks of orange and blue and created a vivid picture.
I stayed at Jama Masjid for almost an hour, sitting in front of the fountain and watching the pigeons flutter around, watching small kids play with their friends after the evening ‘namaaz’. It is at this time everyday that Jama Masjid offers a spectacular view of the ‘Walled City’ from one of its top-most towers.
From the entrance to the Jama Masjid to the stairs leading to the main entrance to the mosque compound and along its both side, throughout the arcade, every evening sits a market. It is a makeshift ‘haat’ on the floors of the arcade or on small podiums, where one can find cheap items like mosquito nets, sandals, silk kurtas and pajamas, burqhas, loin clothes or lungis, and much other like utensils and so on. But, the true essence of the market lies in its kebabs and biriyanis. Kebabs are roasted on clay oven right in front of your eyes and are served with salads and masalas at as low as Rs.10 per plate. These street kebabs can outdo any 5-star hotel in its taste and richness. It is a delicacy to have kebabs of.the Jama Masjid’s market. The lip-smacking Handi Biriyani, Naan, Tandoor and the Kebabs found in the lanes of Jama Masjid, at such a low price but great in taste, in unthinkable anywhere else.
The ‘Old Motor Market’, as the name suggests, at the back lane, just behind the boundary of Jama Masjid complex, is dotted with numerous workshops and machine shops for automobiles and its parts. The place is a couple of century old. The appearance is still the same- narrow lanes, lamp post of corrugated iron beam, etc.
Just beside the Jama Masjid, connecting the Old Motor Market with the main road, is ‘Urdu Bazaar’, with many cheap hotels and lodge for accommodation and typical Mughal restaurants, offering exotic Tandooris or Tawa Chicken with Butter Naan or hot Biriyanis. Such a restaurant, inside a narrow by-lane of Urdu Bazaar, is ‘Karim’s’. ‘Karim’s’ dates back to the early 1813 and said have served the Badshahs of Delhi. Yet today, ‘Karim’s’ is exclusively serving the Imams of Delhi for last few generation. ‘Karim’s’ specializes in Biriyani and Firni. ‘Karim’s’ is yet another landmark in old Delhi, proudly bearing the heritage tag with it.
At the back of the Jama Masjid is the ‘Chawri Bazaar’ which is a monopoly name for dealing in spices and commodities like Daal and Masalas, which is used in Indian kitchen everyday. Close to ‘Chawri Bazaar’ is ‘Khari Bawli’, famous for its dry fruits.
Khari Bawli’ is joined with ‘Sadar Bazaar’ near the ‘Fatehpuri Mosque’ at Chandni Chowk. All these places are a few century old and is the witness of history of every now and then till date.
Thus comes to end my journey of Old Delhi here. The rich culture, multi-diversity, the heritage and the warmth of the people here deeply stirred me.
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